June Blake’s & Hunting Brook Gardens | co. Wicklow

Visiting gardens is just about my favourite thing to do. As soon as the weather warms up you’ll find me exploring a few ones, especially in county Wicklow. This county is chock-full of gorgeous gardens and it’s fairly accessible with transport from Dublin. I’ve made a good dent on my bucket list and while I ticked most of the big ones in this beautiful county, I had yet to visit any private gardens. Today, I’m sharing not one but two of these here.
Located just outside Blessington in West Wicklow, June Blake’s Garden and Hunting Brook Garden are only a couple of miles apart. They are owned by two siblings, but they couldn’t be any more different.

When you get to June Blake’s Garden, you first go through a grand avenue shaded by big majestic trees which opens to an open field view. Follow along the road until you reach the parking lot. You’ll see first June Blake’s stables which house two rooms that you can rent for the night.
How wonderful would it be to wake up here one morning?
As you make your way towards the garden, you’ll pass by the tea-room where you can pay the entrance charge. There’s a small menu of soups, cakes and scones. On the dresser, you’ll find a small selection of gifts to buy such as gardening books and prints.

June Blake’s Garden is small, it spreads over 3 acres but it’s jam-packed with flowers, dry grass and other plant delights. In the middle of it stands a charming little stone cottage. There’s also a reflective rectangle pool and lots of benches where you can sit and relax.
Inspect any plant borders and you get the feeling that June has made the best use of every inch of the garden’s soil. At first glance, the space looks a bit wild in a romantic English garden kind of way when they are left to do their own thing. But give it a second look and you’ll see that this is not the result of nature’s chance but of someone who knows how to work with nature’s timing and complimentary tones. The colours bounce off each other and different stalk heights fill the space in an eye-pleasing way. June Blake is the unequivocal maestro of this vibrant symphony.


I visited in the late Summer and the garden was dotted with beautiful autumnal jewel tones. Oranges, burgundy, marigold and purple. The star of the show might have just been the dahlia for me, they come in so many interesting shapes, from a star-like flower to a full jolly pompom. I was so happy to catch them in season. This flower is just so nostalgic to me. They remind me of my childhood Summers spent in my parents’ garden. I would admire my 80 year old neighbour’s garden through the fence. She was mad for dahlias and let me tell you, when her garden was filled with a thousand of them, it was a joyful sight!
I’d be curious to come back to June Blake’s garden at different times of the year and see how it wears the different seasons. Tulip season is said to be a stunner!

I did several laps of the garden with my camera in hand, high on all the smells and the constant buzzing of the bees. It was the perfect opportunity to crack out my 50mm lens! I then quickly stopped by the tea room to savour a wholesome vegetable soup with a slice of gluten-free rye bread.

Following that, I headed to Hunting Brook Gardens which is located a couple of miles away. It is owned by June Blake’s brother, Jimi and it is abundant with plants and flowers. Indeed, Jimi Blake owns one of Ireland’s largest private plant collections. He brings a lot of plants from his travels which you can follow on his Instagram. And if you like the look of his work, you might be interested to know that he’s releasing a gardening book ‘A Beautiful Obsession‘ in September.

Just as I entered the garden, I was greeted by Jimi’s dog, Doris, who requested a back scratch. Of course, I happily complied and as I let my eyes wander around me, I realised that this garden has a very different atmosphere. It has a certain jungle quality to it, it feels leafier and experimental with a soupçon of mystique. The focal point is a timber house which is Jimi’s home but it is also the space where he teaches his gardening classes. On the porch, you’ll find the plant sale section.
What’s extraordinary about this garden is the surprising mix of exotic plants and perennials. Banana leaves growing next to a purple baby breath? Totally normal in Hunting Brook Gardens!

I was in total awe with the plant border next to the garden entrance, where succulents and cactuses seem to be thriving. It’s not something you would often see outdoors in Ireland as they are generally confined to green houses.
At the back of the garden, there’s a path that will lead you to a magical little woodland nestled in a small valley. Through it flows a rocky mountain stream, Hunting Brook, that gave the gardens their name. The trail loops back through a meadow which offers stunning views over the Wicklow Mountains and the countryside’s patchwork of fields.

Want to explore more gardens in county Wicklow? Check out my posts on Mount Usher Gardens, Killruddery Gardens and Powerscourt Gardens.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

June Blake’s Garden – website
Tinode, Blessington
co. Wicklow

Hunting Brook Garden – website
Lamb Hill, Tinode, Blessington
co. Wicklow

Opening Hours
11am-5.30pm, Wed-Sun (From April to late September)
On Sundays, there’s a guided tour of June Blake’s garden at 2.30pm
You can book group tours at both of the gardens

Admission
General €6 / Children Free

Bus
65 (‘June Blake’s Garden’ stop / ‘Kilbride Antique Shop’ for Hunting Brook Garden)

Poolbeg Peninsula | Dublin

If you lived in Dublin for a certain period of time, chances are that the landmark you associate the most with the city is the Poolbeg Chimneys. Not Temple Bar or the Ha’penny Bridge or even Trinity College, no, those candy-striped chimneys are our version of an Eiffel Tower. Pretty much from anywhere in the Dublin Bay, you can see their familiar silhouette sticking out on the horizon.
And if like me, you travel by boat, they are more than a landmark. They mean you made it home as they welcome you when you enter Dublin Port. For that reason, I was quite excited to do the Poolbeg Peninsula Walk as it meant I got to finally see these two ladies from up close!

There are several starting points to the Poolbeg Peninsula but the most scenic trail begins at the Irishtown entrance. As you follow the peninsula outline, the Dublin shore on your right extends from Sandymount Strand, with its front of colourful houses, to the recognisable port of Dún Laoghaire.
Looking out from the shore, you’d be forgiven to think the peninsula is an absolute wasteland, especially with the waste management facility looming over it. But don’t be too quick to judge as once you enter it, a treasure of fauna and flora opens to you. To be honest, it’s almost easy to forget that the city’s waste is being burnt a few steps away from you.
I was actually surprised to discover that the peninsula is home to a nature reserve, the Irishtown Nature Park. The reserve was born from an idea that seemed completely mad in the 1970s: turn a dump full of waste and rubble into a nature spot. Volunteers gathered forces to make it into the space it is today, a home to many birds, insects and plant species. Quite an inspiring story that gives me a bit of hope for the future!

As you are getting deeper into the trail, the iconic Poolbeg Chimneys are getting closer. They are part of what used to be a power station but they have been disused since the early 2000s.
Did you know that one was taller than the other? Only 40 centimetres mind you! They are one of the tallest structures in Ireland, at a little more than 200m. They gained international fame when they featured in U2‘s music video for Pride (In The Name of Love). In 2014, they became protected to everyone’s relief as they had been previously threatened with demolition.

At the end of the Peninsula trail, there are a couple of beaches which would have looked idyllic if not for the giant eye-sore of the waste management facility behind it.

Tip: If you’re into photography or are looking for a nice insta backdrop, this is a great spot for a little Summer shoot what with the beach grass and the Poolbeg chimneys in the background.

It takes about 2km to get to the beginning of the Great South Wall from the Irishtown’s trail entrance. If you’re short of time, you can skip the trail and come by car (or taxi). There’s a handy parking space at the bottom of the Great South Wall..

The Great South Wall is one of the longest sea walls in Europe. You’ll have to walk nearly 2km to get to the Poolbeg Lighthouse. Half way through is the Half Moon Swimming and Water Polo Club. The old-fashioned blue and white cabins sure look charming on the pier but why would anyone want to swim at this exact spot is beyond me! It is the Dublin Port’s entrance after all, which comes with its heavy traffic of ferries and boats.

Quick advice, do mind your step as the granite path is uneven and only come here on a good weather day, you don’t want to be swiped by an angry wave!

There has been a lighthouse at the end of the sea wall since it was built in the late 18th century. It was first powered by candle-light (the first of its genre, it is said) but the podgy red tower you see today was built in 1820.
Do you know why the Poolbeg Lighthouse is red? In maritime convention, red means port, which is the left side of a boat. And if you look towards Howth, you’ll spot North Bull Lighthouse which is green. And green is for starboard (right side). Now you know!

Fun fact: Poolbeg Lighthouse is nearly equidistant of the Dublin shore, Dún Laoghaire and Howth. That makes it a great spot to admire the Dublin bay!

If you’re looking to escape the city but you’re short on time, it is the walk for you. Once you step in the peninsula, it’s hard to believe you are still in Dublin. The sound of the swishing beach grass and the sea air would cure any city fatigue.

A side note, there’s a talk of a plan to redevelop the area into a residential quarter with high-rise apartment blocks. While Dublin desperately needs new accommodation to alleviate the housing crisis, I can’t help but worry about what it means for the peninsula and its nature reserve. If you haven’t been yet, I’d say hurry and go explore Poolbeg before it changes forever.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The Poolbeg trail is easy to tackle, it is mostly flat (just be careful on the sea wall as the ground is uneven and sometimes wet)
From the shoreline to the Poolbeg Lighthouse, it is about 4 km. Count about 2 hours to go to the lighthouse and back to the shoreline.

Bus
18 (Dromard Terrace, the last stop in Sandymount)

A Quick Guide to an Afternoon in Ghent

ghent belgium

On first impression, Ghent might look like a museum. Its medieval architecture has been incredibly well preserved through the ages. But take a closer look and you’ll see a lively university city with a modern attitude. Indeed the Belgian city is tackling head on concerns related with the climate crisis. They reduced their CO2 emissions by making the centre a car-free zone and encourage its residents to use bikes. You could say that Ghent is a cyclist haven, with the largest designated cyclist area in Europe (400 km of paths).
The city also recognises the detrimental effect the meat industry has on the environment and thus, is a self-proclaimed vegetarian capital. On Thursdays, they promote a meat-free day across work and school cafetarias. And you’d never be hard-pressed to find a vegetarian option as the city counts the world’s largest number of vegetarian restaurants per capita.
Ghent as a vibrant and exciting city, is rapidly leaving the shadow cast by sister Bruges, which is only a 25 minute train journey away.
With a short afternoon to get acquainted with this charming place, I came back with this very snappy first-timer’s guide on how to spend a few hours in the Flemish city.

1. EXPLORE ST. BAVO’S CATHEDRAL

On Sint-Baafsplein stands bright and tall Saint-Bavo’s Cathedral. Step inside as it’s very much worth a look (and it’s free). First thing that hit me when I came in was the beautiful vaulted ceiling. On the ground, the rococo pulpit made of gilded wood and marble majestically dominates the space. Above is one impressive organ, with 600 pipes it is the biggest in the Benelux.
The cathedral’s ground floor is also the last resting place of all the bishops who officiated here. That makes a lot of people to fit in!
The cathedral was completed in 1559 but it actually stands on the old grounds of a 12th century church which you can still see the remains in the crypt. Down there, there’s also a collection of objects used during masses over the years such as vestments and liturgical bits and bobs.
But undoubtedly the pièce de résistance of the cathedral is ‘The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb‘, a polyptych painted by the Van Eyck Brothers in 1459. Purposed to be the cathedral’s altarpiece, its fate was not as peaceful and it went through a real rollercoaster. As one of the most coveted paintings in the world, it went through 7 thefts and got nearly destroyed in a bombing orchestrated by the Nazis. Today it rests peacefully, albeit with a panel missing (one of the biggest unsolved mysteries in art theft) back where it belongs in this cathedral (you can admire it for a small entrance fee).

2. CLIMB THE BELFRY

Facing St. Bavo’s Cathedral is the Belfry. You can climb (or take a lift) to the top and admire the best views over the city of Ghent. With a height of 91m, it is the tallest belfry in Belgium. The gilded dragon that lives on its roof keeps an eye on the city and its residents. Completed in 1442, it served as a watchtower as well as a bell tower. It is today a recognised UNESCO World Heritage site.

3. CROSS ST. MICHAEL’S BRIDGE

While arguably one of the most photogenic spots in the city, St. Michael’s Bridge certainly offers a unique vantage point for your lens. Indeed it is here, and only here, where you can catch Ghent’s ‘Three Towers’ (St. Bavo’s Cathedral, the Belfry and St. Nicholas’ Church) in one shot. It also gives a most idyllic snapshot over the Leie River and the surrounding quays. As you walk along the railing, spot the bronze statue, it is St. Michael, the man himself.

4. LOUNGE ON THE QUAYS

The facing quays, Korenlei and Graslei, are the beating heart of the city. It is a lovely bustling area, a visual reminder that Ghent is also a student city. Here the students and tourists alike come to sit at cafe terraces or simply let their feet dangle off the river banks, watching the boats go by on the Leie. This is one of the oldest sites in Ghent as we can trace it back to the 5th century when it was the heart of Flanders’ wheat trade. The protected row of buildings on Graslei hails back to the Middle Ages. Among them, spot the Spijker, the oldest example of the iconic stepped gable style.

5. SAMPLE A CUBERDON

You’d have a hard time finding this funny-sounding sweet outside Belgium so while in Rome… Indeed it does not export very well as its conservation does not go past a couple of weeks. Some say that the cuberdon was born in Ghent during the 19th century (other argues that it was in Bruges) so you won’t be hard-pressed to spot these little red cones around the city.
Their shell is crusty while their heart goes gooey. Historically made with arabic gum and elderberry juice, nowadays a soapy raspberry flavour is preferred.
And if you want to sink your sweet teeth into history, get your pick’n’mix in Temmerman, the oldest confectionery shop in town. The shop was set up in the 19th century and has been in the same family over 8 generations. They started by selling gingerbread (quite fitting as the building looks like a cute gingerbread house) but their shelves now stock all kinds of traditional confectionary such as our cuberdons (or neuzekes, little noses in Flemish), mokken, knopkes or meulentrekkers.

6. VISIT GRAVENSTEEN CASTLE

Another major landmark in Ghent is Gravensteen, the last remaining medieval castle with a moat in Flanders. It was built at the end of the 12th century and served as a residence for the counts of Flanders. Later it went through several incarnations: a court, a prison, a mint, a cotton factory, … until it fell into disrepair. The people of Ghent wanted to see it destroyed as it had become a symbol of feudal oppression and the inquisition. It was instead restored and transformed into a museum open to the public in 1913.
The castle became then Ghent’s biggest attraction and you can still today visit the museum which houses a collection of medieval weapons and instruments of torture. Needless to say, the tour is not for the faint-hearted!

If you have time to sit down for a cuppa, Uit Steppe en Oase has a beautiful tea garden hidden in a courtyard. Just opposite stands Proof if you’re looking for something with a bit more kick in a seriously cool decor, perfect for people watching.

Should you feel pressed by time and want to have a fun and quick feel of the city, you can go on a horse cart, a tour boat or even rent your own boat to explore the canals at your own leisure. While these means of transport are crazy expensive in Bruges, they have remained affordable in Ghent… so far!

While I didn’t get to explore the Ghent’s restaurant scene, you can believe that I’ll be back to sample some vegetarian goodness. Also on my list, a wander through Patershol and Prinsenhof, two atmospheric quarters beyond the Gravensteen Castle. As you can see, another trip to Ghent needs to happen… and when it only takes a half an hour train journey from Brussels, there’s really no excuse!

Did you enjoy my Ghent guide? You might find my top of the best photo spots in Bruges useful

Bruges’ Best Photo Spots

bruges Belgium brugge

Bruges is the ultimate photographers’ dream. At almost every corner, there’s a chance to uncover a picturesque little scene that will make you want to grab your camera. It is one of the most well-preserved medieval towns in Europe and as such its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000. It is a treasure trove of Renaissance and gothic architecture.
I recently spent an afternoon in the ‘Venice of the North’ and these were the 5 most instagrammable spots I found, but of course there are many more. I’m only really scratching the surface with this post.

bruges belgium

Generally, my favourite thing to photograph was the cobbled streets, not one in particular but I especially loved the ones lined with rows of houses with crow-stepped gables, typical of Dutch and Belgian architecture.
The one pictured above is called Sint-Jakobstraat and it’s quite magical really. First you’re met with an old-looking well, next to it there’s this cute homeware shop ‘Serendipity’, doors and windows are painted in a vibrant blue and just behind the bend, you’ll be met quite unexpectedly with the majestic St James Church. Now onto the 5 best photo spots in Bruges.

bruges markt belgium
1. MARKT

Located in the heart of Bruges, Markt is the city’s main square. It is surrounded by colourful guild houses that have now all been converted to restaurants. There’s also the West Flanders Provincial Court, the Belfry and its courtyard called the Cloth Hall, the statues of Jan Breydel and Pieter de Coninck who fought in the Flemish resistance, frietkotten (chipper stalls) and horse carts.
On Wednesdays, it is market day, a function the square has taken since 958.

bruges belgium
2. THE TOP OF THE BELFRY

This medieval bell tower was once an observation post to spot fires and other dangers but today, you can climb the 366 steps to access the best view of Bruges. At 83m (272 feet) high, the views over the city and around will take your breath away. I especially loved seeing all the colourful houses on Markt from above.
Please note that the staircase is really quite narrow so best keep the climb for off-peak times.

rozenhoedkaai bruges belgium
3. ROZENHOEDKAAI

This cinematic corner where the Groenerei and Dijver canals meet is one of the most photographed spots in Bruges. Rozenhoedkaai, meaning ‘Quay of the Rosary’, refers to a time where the rosary sellers would set up shop here, back in the 15th century. Before this quay was a port for salt traders who would come here to moor their ship and unload their merchandise.
Today, this is the starting point of many boat trips and a view that tourists from all over the world come to capture.

st bonifacius bruges belgium
4. BONIFACIUS BRIDGE

Located in the peaceful Arents courtyard, Bonifacius bridge is one romantic-looking little bridge. It spans over a murmuring canal lined with overhanging half-timbered houses with tudor-like windows. The scene couldn’t be more idyllic. Overlooking the bridge is Church of Our Lady which is the tallest building in Bruges.
Don’t let this bridge’s old-worldly charms fool you, it is actually one of the youngest bridges in the city as it only dates back to the early 20th century.

blinde ezelstraat bruges belgium
5. BLINDE EZEL-STRAAT

Blinde Ezel-straat, or ‘Blind Donkey Alley’, is the narrow street that joins Burg Square to the Fish Market. With your back to the Fish Market, you’ll see the gorgeous baroque archway that connects the City Hall to the Old Courthouse. Those types of bridges always evoke hushed secret meetings to me.
If you wonder where the name of this street comes from, there’s a legend attached to it. The story says that when people from Ghent came to steal Bruges’ dragon, they transported it on a cart pulled by a donkey. To stop their escape, the people from Bruges decided to blind the poor animal and this is where they rescued the dragon.
Another explanation, a bit more sensible this one, could stem from the name of the inn that once was located on this street. Its name, The Blind Donkey you might have guessed it, was a reference to the donkeys that were working at the treadmill of the malt house. It was custom to blindfold them so they don’t get bored.

 

A Day of Romance in Dublin

saint valentine's day dublin chez max dublin castle

With Valentine’s Day fast approaching, I thought it would be fun to come up with a walkable day itinerary of sweet little activities in Dublin to do with your boo, tailored for all you lovers out there (with map included at the end of this post). If you picked the Irish capital for a romantic getaway, I’d argue you’ve actually come to the right place. Not only does the city’s architecture lend itself perfectly for a romantic stroll but it’s also a city that inspired countless love stories, passionate (James Joyce and Nora Barnacle), hopeless (W.B. Yeats and Maud Gonne), tragic (Joseph Plunkett and Grace Gifford) or fictional (Guy and Girl in the Oscar-winner film, Once). And lastly, you might be surprised to learn that Dublin is one of the resting places of Valentine, saint patron of lovers. If that’s not a sign you should come to Dublin to celebrate your love, I don’t know what is!

whitefriar church dublin valentine's day

Start the day by a visit to the Whitefriar Street Carmelite Church on Aungier Street. You might wonder why I’m pointing you in the direction of a place of worship first thing in the morning on your fun-filled day together. Well here’s the surprising bit of trivia for you, good ole Saint Valentine is actually resting here. Well some of him…

FIND OUT HOW THE REMAINS OF SAINT VALENTINE ENDED UP IN THIS DUBLIN CHURCH

On Valentine’s Day, the box holding his remains is displayed on the church’s altar and couples flock here to have their rings blessed. If your love is unrequited, you can also write your wishes in the guestbook, just under Valentine statue’s benevolent gaze.
The church itself is quite an interesting place too, the moody dark byzantine architecture is quite unexpected in the Dublin’s landscape.

If you’re visiting on a Saturday or a Sunday, go to Whitefriar Grill, located just across the street for your first meal of the day. It is a bit of a weekend brunch institution in Dublin.

avoca shop dublin valentine's day

Then let’s do a spot of shopping! In keeping with Valentine’s gifting traditions, your first port of call is Parfumarija. This beautiful boutique, located in the Westbury mall, specialises in niche perfumery. This will make for the perfect opportunity to get close to each other while maybe picking a very special scent that will truly be unique to your partner.

From there, you can go to Avoca, the iconic Irish homeware shop on Suffolk Street. Every item there is pretty much a dream but their classic wool throws are a must-buy. Those cold February nights when you ‘Netflix and Chill‘ on the sofa will never be the same again.

national gallery of ireland valentine's day dublin

For a bit of balance, let’s make our next stop cultural. In the National Gallery of Ireland, you can see one of the most emotionally-charged encounters painted on canvas. Hellelil and Hildebrand, the Meeting on the Turret Stairs. Incidentally, it is also Ireland’s favourite painting. You can view it all day on Valentine’s Day. Click here for other viewing times (it is free).

The museum has a cute and bright cafe that serves good simple food if your bellies are grumbling at this point.

saint stephen's green dublin valentine's day

Afterwards you can head to Grafton Street. This pedestrian street is great for a bit of arm-in-arm window-shopping. February can be brutal in Ireland so stop by Bewley’s Cafe for a hot chocolate to warm-up.
Coming at the end of the street, you’ll spot the recognisable Fusiliers Arch that marks the entrance of St Stephen’s Green.
This for me is the most romantic place in Dublin city centre. More precisely the little stone bridge in the middle of the park. It gives a beautiful vista on the lake and its resident swans, the Victorian gazebo and the trees. You’ll see this is a popular spot, many people stop for selfies so give in to this little cheesy tradition and ask a stranger to take a picture of you two just there.

sophie's bar dean hotel valentine's day dublin

From there, you can walk to Harcourt Street where the Dean Hotel is located. On the top floor is the uber swanky Sophie’s, a bar and restaurant with 360° panoramic views over the fair city. This place is the perfect spot for romantic dates as it has cushy booths and rooftop views. Perfect place to snuggle up with a cocktail (or a mocktail) in hand. If you were to be tired and done for the day, the restaurant also serves attractive food and you can book a room in the beautifully designed Dean Hotel downstairs.

love lane temple bar valentine's day dublin

For those who are still full of beans and ready to hit the town, walk (15 min) or bus back to the city centre. Off Dame Street, there’s a secret courtyard which you can access from the passage under Brogan’s pub. There you’ll find the Love Lane, a charming art installation designed by artist Anna Doran. Inspect it while you’re waiting for your dinner reservation. On the pink wall, tiles are inscribed with love messages, lyrics and poems such as ‘you’re a smasher, 2 eggs and a rasher‘.

Once you’re done, head back out to Dame Street and right in front of you is the Dublin Castle entrance where stands a French bistro called Chez Max (pictured at the top of this post). There’s a reason why romance rhymes with France. This cosy little place serves an informal French fare with no airs but a lot of charm.

peter's pub dublin valentine's day

Finally what would be a trip to Ireland without a visit to the pub? And the perfect way to find romance in an Irish pub is to get comfy in a snug. Some period pubs still feature this private booth which historically was used for patrons who wanted to stay discrete such a policemen, priests, women and you guessed it, lovers. You’ll generally find them in Victorian pubs but check out @DublinSnugs‘s reviews on Instagram to pick one you like the look of.

Rainy Day Alternative
But what if it rains? That’s a valid concern, this is Dublin after all but do not fret, I have a relatively dry afternoon plan for you. Hop on the Vintage Tea Tours Bus at the CHQ. From the comfort of a double decker, you’ll tour the city and its attractions while enjoying afternoon tea. After the tour, head to the Stella, the most glamorous cinema in the city. You’ll love the comfort of their plush red sofas. You can order drinks and snacks from the comfort of your seats and they also have a fancy diner should you be peckish afterwards. Note that Slatterys, the pub two doors down, has a nice snug!

A Miraculous Sunny Day?
On the off chance that the sun shows its face, make the most of it and either head to Phoenix Park to hire a tandem to see the deer. Or even better, hike up Killiney Hill (coincidentally a film location for Once). The goosebump-inducing views over the Dublin Bay is as a romantic setting as they go (And if you were about to pop the question, I don’t think you’d find a better spot. Wink wink nudge nudge)

14 Henrietta Street | Dublin

14 Henrietta Street Museum

There’s a new museum in town and it’s a good one. It is also an important one in the context of Dublin’s current homelessness crisis. 14 Henrietta Street tells the story of housing in Dublin from the 1750s to the 1970s. In the span of these 200 years, number 14 saw its residents drastically change from when it was a wealthy family’s townhouse to a tenement dwelling accommodating up to a 100 people.
Now you can step in 14 Henrietta Street and listen to its walls talking.

The museum is located on Henrietta Street, the first Georgian street in Dublin. It’s an atmospheric cul-de-sac which you can find in the North inner city. The houses are uncharacteristically tall, the road is still covered in cobblestones and at the end, you’ll find King’s Inns, the oldest school of law in Ireland.
It’s one of my favourite streets in Dublin, it has a striking old-world charm and for that reason it features in many films and tv shows.

14 Henrietta Street Museum

The street was built by architect Luke Gardiner in the 1720s. The houses here were to welcome Dublin’s high society.
In 1748, 14 Henrietta Street was ready and Lord Viscount Molesworth moved in with his family. It’s in these Georgian times that the museum tour starts.
As soon as our group opens the front door we are met with the reconstructed grand staircase. It’s easy looking at it to imagine how this family would receive and entertain their guests here. At the top of the stairs, we admire the place’s original features as well as the view on the street from the first floor’s window. It’s almost hard to believe it’s late Summer, the towering houses on the opposite side of the street cast such a cold shadow in the room.
We walk in the music room which original purpose is given away by the delicate instruments carved in the ceiling’s plasterwork. As we go through the period rooms, we learn of the Molesworth’s fate.
Following the 1800 Act of Union which joined Ireland to the United Kingdom, Dublin’s aristocracy left the city en masse for London. This plunged the city in a deep economic crisis. Landlords had now on their hands these big beautiful townhouses that no one could afford and they decided to cut them in flats.
Thus was born the era of Dublin’s tenement housing.

14 Henrietta Street Museum

This radical change of pace of the house hits us in the face as we open the blue bedroom’s back door to the service stairs. Here starts the tenement part of the museum. The walls are crumbling, it’s cold, dark and dingy. Our tour guide Tracey tells us that some visitors who used to live here can still smell the disinfectant that covered the walls. It’s undetectable to me but the walls indeed still bear the bleach-laced paints of Raddle Red and Reckitt’s Blue.
In 1877, Thomas Vance bought number 14 and divided it in 17 flats with only 2 toilets available. By 1911, 100 people were living in these dwellings. The poorest families were squeezed in into single rooms. You’d typically find these lower-rent rooms in the basement and this is where the tour continues after we carefully go down the rickety stairs.
The room is dark but for a sliver of light coming from the street above. The furnishing is minimalistic: a metal bed, some enamel wash-bowls, a couple of chairs, clothes hanging and holes in the wall that pass as a hearth.
The scene is directly inspired by the work of social photographer John Cooke. Back in 1913, he documented the state of Dublin’s slums. His pictures served as a base for the Dublin Housing Inquiry upon which actions were to be taken to improve the living conditions of the poor. Unfortunately, World War I broke out and the issue was swept under the carpet.
On the walls of the basement flat, we are shown John Cooke’s photographs depicting these living conditions and it’s absolutely heart-wrenching. It’s hard to believe that once a family of 13 had slept right here.

The tour continues upstairs, in a room where vintage toys and prams are gathered in a corner. As black and white pictures of children playing on Henrietta street are projected on the wall, we listen to Peter Brannigan, a former resident. He tells us what it was like growing up here in the 1940s.
Nursery Rhymes appear on the door and some visitors start singing along, bringing in the room the ghosts of their own memories of a distant Dublin.

14 Henrietta Street Museum

Next door, we learn of the end of tenement living. Low-income families were moved to new flat blocks and suburban cottage houses. This process started in the 1930s and went on until the 1970s. Of course, it was a blessing for these families. It meant safer living conditions, more room and also new hobbies for the wives like gardening or cooking. But there was a price to pay, it was lonely. They felt like they lost their community they had been relying on every day. The cost of life was higher too as the suburb shops tended to be pricier.

14 Henrietta Street Museum

The tour ends in a colourful explosion of knick-knacks in the last room. This is the recreation of Mrs Lily Dowling’s flat which would have looked like a typical tenement flat in the 1960s. It’s a lovely surprise in contrast of the previous rooms that were looking a bit bare.
The room is partitioned in three: there’s a tiny galley kitchen, a living room with a bed, a piano, there’s even a telly, and finally a small bedroom. The floor linoleum and wallpaper are striking replicas of scraps that were found during the building’s renovation.
Some visitors are enchanted to see the kitchen stocked with staples from another era. Tracey passes a carbolic soap that we gather around to sniff. It has an unpleasant smell of petroleum to my non-Dubliner nose but it seems to delight the woman next to me. ‘You can still buy them on Thomas Street!’, she exclaims. Her nostalgia is contagious and I feel myself warming up to the weird pink soap smell.

14 Henrietta Street Museum14 Henrietta Street Museum

14 Henrietta Street lifts the veil off an unpleasant part of Dublin’s history but don’t be put off by the idea as I think you’ll find yourself uplifted by the tour. Yes, you’ll feel anger towards landlords whose greed seem to know no limits and the feeling is certainly amplified in the current housing climate. But what stays with you is the strong community spirit the people of Dublin demonstrate by the bucket load in the presence of adversity.

14 Henrietta Street Museum

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

14 Henrietta Street, Townhouse and Tenement Museum – website
14 Henrietta Street
Inns Quay

Dublin 1

Opening Hours
10am – 4pm, tours are on the hour with the last tour at 4pm (Wednesday – Saturday)
12pm-4pm (Sunday)
Closed on Monday and Tuesday
Booking your ticket online is advised. 

Admission
General €9 / Concessions €6 / Family €20

Bus
1, 4, 9, 11, 13, 16, 38, 38A, 40, 46A, 83, 122, 140

Luas
Dominick Street Stop or Broadstone Stop (Green Line)

Howth Castle | Dublin

Howth Castle

Up until recently, I had never heard of Howth Castle, despite going to Howth Village more times than I can remember. Judging from the reactions I had from some Dubliners, I was definitely not the only one oblivious to its presence. This 700 year old castle is literally hiding in plain sight on the peninsula of Howth.
You see, when you exit Howth Dart Station, you instinctively take a left, in the direction of the harbour. Next time go against your instinct and take a right until you reach the estate’s impressive stone gate entrance. It would be a shame to miss this estate, scene of a pirate legend and of one of the most famous monologues in Irish Literature.

Howth Castle

From the time you pass under the entrance gate, it’s a good 10 minute uphill walk until you see the castle. It’s an impressive sight.  Notice the layers of history in all the parts that were successively added to the structure through the ages.
There has been a Howth Castle since 1180 on the edge of Howth village but nothing is left from that original timber building. The oldest parts you can see today date back from the mid-15th century.

What’s fascinating is that the same family has been living here since 1180 thus making Howth Castle one of the oldest residential castles in Ireland, if not Europe. The Lawrence Family has been carrying all sorts of stories and traditions over 35 generations. One in particular involves a lady pirate, Grace O’Malley. Back in 1576, she wished to visit the castle but when she knocked on the doors, she found them shut tight. The Lawrence Family was too busy having dinner to receive her. Strongly offended, she orchestrated the kidnapping of the family’s young heir in retaliation. After much discussion, Grace and the Lawrence came to an agreement. She was to bring the boy safe home on the condition that the castle doors must always be open and that an extra seat must be set at the table for any unexpected guests. It is said that the family still honours their promise even to this day. Do you reckon I could show up tonight for a bite?

Howth Castle

If you’re interested to know more about the castle and the Lawrence family, you can take part to a tour between the months of April and September, on Sundays.
To be found also inside the castle is the National Transport Museum of Ireland as well as the cosiest cafe I ever did see. It is located in the courtyard. As soon as I stepped inside the Castle Cafe, I felt like I had been transported to someone’s private garden, albeit with a grandiose castle background. Little white cast iron tables and chairs are scattered on the lawn and there’s also seating available in the adorable conservatory. I heard they make scones everyday fresh out of their aga. It sounds absolutely heavenly, I’m dying to try them out with some yummy jam. They also serve afternoon tea in this idyllic setting.

Howth CastleHowth Castle

Outside the castle, you still have plenty to explore in the 250 acre gardens so hold on to your boots. First you’ll stumble upon the Deer Park Golf. At the time of my visit (early June), it was completely covered with buttercups which was ever so cheerful. I immediately had the urge to cross the field and walk towards the sea until I reached the park’s edge. Through the trees, I was surprised to see spreading in front of me Howth harbour and its tiny seafood restaurants. It’s a crazy thought, Howth Castle demesne had been here all along, only hidden by a handful of trees. I could see below the streets I had trodden, oblivious to the amazing treasure that was lying so close.
This sudden change of perspective made me feel a bit dizzy. What else have I not noticed around me? I had missed a bloody castle, after all!

Howth CastleHowth Castle

After spying on the village like a creepy puppet master for a while, I set off in the direction of the golf club’s bar. Near the parking lot, I watched a lone golfer practising his swing. Surely, he must have felt like the luckiest golfer alive facing the epic view over the peninsula’s entrance.

Behind the building is the start to the Rhododendron Walk. It goes through a forest of, you guessed it, rhododendrons. It looks so out of place, almost jungle-like, you would not necessarily expect to find a setting like this in Ireland.  The forest paths are covered with the trees’ exposed twisting roots, I felt like I had just been transported in the film Legend. I don’t think it would have totally surprise me to catch a glimpse of a unicorn in between the foliage.
Note that the rhododendron trees bloom from May to June so make sure to plan your visit around that time to experience the place to its full potential.

Howth Castle
At the start of the walk, you can go straight and climb steep steps that will lead you to the top of the Rhododendron hill. It might take a little effort but believe me the pay-off is worth every steps. I don’t think I exaggerate when I say that there you will find one of the most stunning views in Dublin. In my opinion, it ranks as high as the view from Killiney Hill. It sweeps over Howth Castle, Howth Harbour and the Ireland’s Eye. You can even see the Poolbeg Chimneys on the left!

Click here to read my post on Killiney Hill

Howth CastleHowth Castle

Now if you’d rather not climb any steps, you can take the path on your right to explore the forest grounds. There you’ll find an impressive dolmen, the 2nd heaviest in Ireland. It’s nicknamed Aideen’s Grave after a young widow who died of a broken heart following her husband’s death at the battle of Gabhra (AD 184). Unfortunately as romantic as this legend sounds, it can’t be true as the stone was dated at least 300 years older than the historic battle.

Howth CastleHowth Castle

Another fictitious love story was set among these trees. Indeed, it is here that Leopold Bloom proposed to Molly in James Joyce’s Ulysses. This is the scene of the most recognisable monologue in the book. Amongst these striking trees, she said yes she will yes. Who wouldn’t really?

See also: Drimnagh Castle, if you’re looking to visit another castle in Dublin

Howth Castle

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Howth Castle – website 
Howth Demesne
co. Dublin

Opening Hours
Tours of the castle are available on Sunday afternoon from April to September, you can book your ticket here.

Admission
The demesne is free to roam while the entrance fee to the castle starts at €50

Dart
Howth Station

The 10 Prettiest Pubs in Dublin

The 10 Prettiest Pubs in Dublin
Whether you come to Dublin for the pubs or not, you’re going to see a lot of them. They’re the most important feature of the cityscape’s fabric. Chances are you’ll want to photograph a few, so I thought I’d compile here a list of the pubs I think would look really cute on your Instagram feed. For me, Irish pubs are at their handsomest in Summer when they’re covered in flowers. Mind you, they do look rather cosy too when all their halls are decked for the festive season.
This is a very shallow list, we’ll only judge these pubs by their exterior looks here although some of the pubs below are really worth a visit too!
Keep scrolling to read my top 10 most instagrammable pubs in Dublin (there’s a map at the end of this post to help you on your ‘photo pub crawl’). Happy snapping!

The 10 Prettiest Pubs in Dublin

1. TEMPLE BAR PUB

This is the pub everyone wants to see when they come to Dublin. In the heart of Temple Bar, the Temple Bar Pub attracts the eye with its shiny red facade. What I love about this one is that the owners don’t go half way with the decoration. You can bet that come Summer it’ll be covered from top to bottom with geraniums. And at Christmas, it’ll twinkle with a thousand fairy lights.

47-48, Temple Bar
Dublin 2

2. M.J. O’NEILL’S

O’Neill’s is one beast of a pub that spreads on the corner of Suffolk Street and Church Lane. It dominates the street with its four floors of red brick and Tudor-style windows. I never tire of its jolly green facade, especially when it’s covered with flowers in the warmer months. The facade features lots of interesting details among which a rather attractive three-dial clock.

2 Suffolk Street
Dublin 2

The 10 Prettiest Pubs in Dublin

3. THE BANK BAR

Another imposing building is the Bank Bar on College Green. It’s huge, it even has a turret! Its grandiose allure comes from the fact that it used to be a bank, as you may have guessed it. Of course the inside matches the glorious outside. What I love the most about this pub is the warm tone of the sandstone covering its exterior. It changes with the lighting of the seasons. It is unique in the Dublin’s cityscape and it absolutely pops out.

20 College Green
Dublin 2

The 10 Prettiest Pubs in Dublin

4. THE LONG HALL

This pub is a shining landmark on George’s Street. You definitely can’t miss it with its enchanting red and white canopies. It almost looks like an ice-cream parlour of a bygone era. It’s not all about the look as you’ll know if you step inside, The Long Hall is one of the most spectacular examples of a preserved Victorian pub in Dublin. Well worth a pit stop!

51 South Great George’s Street
Dublin 2

5. THE STAG’S HEAD

It seems I have a thing for clocks adorning pubs. This one is painted in a vibrant Tiffany Blue. On it, you can read the name of the pub’s original owner, Mr. Tyson, back in the 1890’s. Like the Long Hall, the Stag’s Head is another beautiful Victorian slice of life frozen in time. You’ll find it on the corner of Dame Lane and Dame Court which is one of the liveliest areas on weekend nights. On days of celebration or football match, the whole court is covered in bunting which makes the Stag’s Head look even more special.

1 Dame Court
Dublin 2
Prettiest Pubs in Dublin

6. THE OLIVER ST. JOHN GOGARTY

If you’re looking for an understated or subtle pub facade then you probably want to look away now. Located in Temple Bar’s oldest buildings, the Oliver St. John Gogarty is a sight for sore eyes. Half green, half yellow, its front counts more flags than an Embassy quarter. The pub takes its name from the Irish poet which you can see several incarnations of around the building in the shape of portraits and statues.

18-21 Anglesea Street
Dublin 2

The Prettiest Pubs in Dublin

7. BRUXELLES

Bruxelles is that red brick castle-like building just off Grafton Street. Its gothic style gives it a gloomy, melancholic air but don’t be deceived by its looks, Bruxelles has known many wild nights. Just outside is a statue of Phyl Lynott who used to come and perform here.

8 Harry Street
Dublin 2

8. THE QUAYS

On Temple Bar Square, the tiled corner of The Quays is rather eye-catching. I think it’s the Seventies colour combination of green, mustard and brown that does it for me. Besides, it’s not that often that you see a tiled pub front in Dublin. Pretty unique, I think!

10-12 Temple Bar
Dublin 2
The Prettiest Pubs in Dublin

9. THE PALACE BAR

At the edge of Temple Bar is located the picture-perfect Palace Bar. Its narrow front sports beautiful wood-panelling and inside, you’ll step in another Victorian bubble where the decor has not been changed since the pub’s beginning in 1823.
But the detail that steals my heart is the elegant copper lamp post outside. It looks so old-timey, you’d almost expect it to be gas-powered.

21 Fleet Street
Dublin 2

10. THE BANKERS

The Bankers is an odd-shaped red pub at the entrance of Dame Lane. You could say it’s the ‘Flat Iron’ of Dublin pubs! It looks so jovial and keen like a ship’s bow at the ready for new adventures on the sea. I always like to have a nosey through the small window panes when I walk past it. Especially on cold nights, as the glowing inside often reminds me of a scene you’d find on an Irish Christmas card.

Trinity Street
Dublin 2

So which one you’ll want to photograph first? Do tag me on Instagram @theartofexploring, I would love to see your pictures! Let me know in the comments, do you agree with this list? Is there a pub that you would add here?

Russborough House & Parklands | co. Wicklow

Russborough House
One golden afternoon in the late Autumn, I took the 65 bus to county Wicklow. I got off at the end of the line, in a town called Blessington. It wasn’t my first time here, actually. I had stayed here for a couple of days in the Avon Ri Lakeshore Resort a few years back. It is a group of self-catered townhouses on the shore of the Blessington Lakes. I have fond memories of the place and I would totally recommend it if you’re looking for a base to explore Wicklow or if you simply want an escape from the city. The lakes are the perfect setting for invigorating country walks.
Coincidentally, the Avon Ri is also the start of the Greenway Walk, where I was headed that morning. This is the trail that leads directly to Russborough House. This Irish Stately House had been on my list of places to see for a really long time. I had read that it was one of Ireland’s most beautiful houses and I was dying to see it for myself.
Greenway Walk
The Blessington Greenway trail is a pleasant one hour and half walk (one way) on flat, well-maintained paths. They follow first the shores of the lakes then they go through wild woodlands. Half-way through, I felt my shrivelled urban lungs expand and fill themselves with the crisp cold Autumn air of the morning. Dry leaves were crunching under my feet and the pine trees wrapped me with their musky silence.
At the end of the trail, a stoned arch marks the entrance to the Russborough demesne. It opens to a long avenue bordered with trees which leads directly to the 18th century house. Its 210 metre-long facade (the longest frontage in Ireland) embraces a phenomenal view of valleys, mountains, lakes and, of course, sheep.
I sat down on a bench to take it all in (and to recover from the previous long walk).
Revived by my surroundings, I then headed to the ticket office and booked a tour inside the house. The tour was to start in an hour which left me a bit of time to explore the house’s grounds.
Russborough House
The courtyard is home to many artisan and craft stalls: a blacksmith, a candle-maker, a woodturner and a ceramicist. There, you will find also Ireland’s Bird of Prey Centre and if you’re lucky you might catch a show of falconry. It was a bit late in the year so I wasn’t. I didn’t feel too lucky either when I found out that the walled gardens were closed that day.
Nonetheless, I continued my exploration, walked by the maze and stumbled upon one of the previous owners’ grave, the 4th Earl of Milltown and the Countess. I also found a fairy trail and admired Lady’s Island where a little red Japanese bridge spans over a delightful brook.
But time was a-ticking and I headed back to the gift shop where the tour was to start. A friendly lady with a mellifluous germanic accent took our small group in the first room of the house. The dining room.
Russborough House
There, the long mahogany table had been laid out with silver candle holders, gilded porcelain plates and tiny crystal glasses for the sherry. Our tour guide set the scene and depicted the lives of those who once called Russborough home. It all started with Jospeh Leeson, 1st Earl of Milltown who asked Richard Cassels to design and build the house in 1741. Richard Cassels was one of the most prolific architects in Ireland of the time. He was a master of the Palladian style of which Russborough is a fine example.
The estate stayed in the Leeson family until 1914. It passed in the hands of a couple more owners then was finally acquired by Lord and Lady Beit. They were looking for a place to house their vast art collection.
The couple resided here until their final days (Lord Alfred Beit: 1994, Lady Beit: 2005) but they opened part of the house to the public, in the late seventies.
The life of the Beits at Russborough was eventful, to say the least. They’ve gone through: 4 robberies (one of them was even labelled ‘the biggest art robbery in history’ at the time), 1 forced occupation by the old IRA, 1 fire and 1 ghost. But not everything was gloom and doom, the couple actually had mostly a happy life here. They were renowned socialites and received many illustrious guests. Mick Jagger, Marianne Faithful, Jackie Kennedy, Fred Astaire and Coco Chanel to name a few.
Having noticed some books on the Mitford Sisters in the gift shop (I used to be obsessed with them!), I asked the tour lady if there was any connections with Russborough, could they have been guests here too?
To my absolute delight, she informed me that the sisters were actually cousins of Lady Clementine Beit!
Russborough House
Russborough House
Russborough House
While learning about the life of the Beits, we had moved from one room to another. We passed the boudoir, the entrance hall, the reception room and my favourite, the library. As it happens, the favourite of the lady of the house too! Lady Clementine was a “mad bibliophile and adored being surrounded by books“. I couldn’t have thought of a better place for that as the walls were covered in books and the sofa near the chimney looked ever so inviting.
One thing that really impressed me throughout the whole visit was the ceiling and the wall plasterwork. The flamboyantly rococo stucco work was a speciality of the Lafranchini Brothers and if you see some in a Palladian house in Ireland, chances are they worked on them.
Russborough House
Russborough House
Russborough House
We climbed the equally ornate staircase to access the second floor. There the rooms are more plain, the showstopper here is undoubtedly the mesmerising view from the bedroom. My eyes got lost on the horizon and I couldn’t help thinking about the person waking up to this, every morning. They must have felt the luckiest human in the world!

Looking for more Wicklow gardens to visit? Head to my Wicklow section 

Russborough House

RUSSBOROUGH HOUSE PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Russborough House & Parklands – website
Blessington
co. Wicklow
Ireland

Opening Hours
see website

Admission
General €12 / Concession €9 / Child €6 / Under 5 Free

Bus
65

BLESSINGTON GREENWAY WALK PRACTICAL INFORMATION

The trail starts at the Avon Ri Lakeshore Resort and ends at Russborough House. Distance one way is 6.5 km which takes about 1.5 hour to complete. The trail’s grade is easy.

6 Places Where to Stop and Smell the Roses in Dublin

Places in Dublin Where to Stop and Smell the Roses

I’m sure you have all sorts of busy plans for this Summer, jet-setting here and there. Or maybe working throughout the whole season. With a busy schedule, it’s all the more important to stop and smell the roses. Especially as we have so many fantastic places to do just so here in Dublin. Heck, we even have a festival dedicated to the pretty posy.
And because roses are repeat-flowerers, it means you’ll have until early Autumn to maybe take a few minutes for yourself in one of the places below where roses rule as queens.

Places in Dublin Where you Can Smell the Roses

1. IRISH NATIONAL WAR MEMORIAL GARDENS

If I had to pick one place to come to see the roses in Dublin every year, this will be it. There’s something about the architecture that makes me think of the Roaring Twenties. I can imagine a glamorous flapper being serenaded here under the moon light, one warm Summer night. The roses are spread around a concrete pond in two sunken gardens on both side of the Stone of Remembrance. Four granite bookrooms holding the names of the Irish soldiers who died during WWI stand majestically on both of the rose gardens’ entrance.

Places in Dublin Where You Can Stop And Smell The Roses

2. IVEAGH GARDENS

The Iveagh Gardens are known as Dublin’s secret garden. Located just next to Stephen’s Green, it lives in the shadow of its bigger and more famous sister. If you’re looking to escape Stephen’s Green’s crowded lawns in Summer, this is here that will find your peace and quiet. The Gardens counts whimsical, at times wonderland-esque, features: a yew maze, two striking fountains, a cascade and, you’ll have guessed it by now, a rosarium. The smell inside the arches is so potent you’ll want to bask yourself in it for hours.

Places in Dublin Where you Can Stop and Smell the Roses

3. ST ANNE’S PARK

If you have any interest in roses and you live in Dublin, chances are you have heard of St Anne’s Park in Raheny. This large park facing Bull Island has the biggest rose garden in the city. It even holds a yearly rose festival on the month of July.  It’s a joyous, familial event where you can of course admire the roses in full bloom (I especially love the canopies) but also mooch around craft and food stalls. If you want to know more about the event, you can read my coverage of it here.

Places in Dublin where to Stop and Smell the Roses

4. PORTOBELLO

Portobello is undoubtedly one of my favourite neighbourhoods in South Dublin and it truly comes alive with Summer. Dubliners love to sit along the Grand Canal to sunbathe and roses add colourful touches to the typical cottages’ front gardens. Some of my favourite streets to admire the local blooms are Arnott Street and Portobello Road along the canal but wander aimlessly and you’ll be rewarded! And if you want to make a pit stop for a refreshing drink and a slice of cake, you’ll be spoilt for choices as Portobello is the home to so many great cafes. Bibi’s, Love Supreme, Little Bird, The Greenery, Meet Me in The Morning,… to name a few.

6 Places in Dublin Where You Can Stop and Smell the Roses

5. NATIONAL BOTANIC GARDENS

If you keep on your left once you enter the gardens then cross the Tolka River, this is where you’ll find the rose garden. I’m mentioning this because even though I visited these gardens many times, I’ve always missed it. It’s certainly easy to get distracted in this beautiful place. The rose garden has the traditionally circular shape and its centre you’ll find one of the garden’s two sundials. The roses there are a joyous multicoloured bunch, there’s even a deep purple species which is something I had never seen before!

Places in Dublin Where you can Stop and Smell the Roses

6. DUBLIN’S FLOWER SHOPS

Dublin has some amazing flower shops and stalls, I would highly recommend visiting them to bring a bit of rose magic in your own home. You can find two of my favourites only a few meters from each other, in Dublin’s creative quarter.
These beautiful rainbow roses were sold by Appassionata Flowers when Ireland said yes. Their display is always a joy to look at, no matter the season. A few minutes away, you’ll find The Garden in the Powerscourt Townhouse’s hall, spilling their lovely posies on the building’s majestic steps. Inside the shop, the beautiful collection of plants, pots, candles and stationary fill the Georgian entrance with breathtaking grace.